Nusa Penida, today an island visited by thousands of travelers daily, known for its beautiful cliffs, turquoise water, abundant underwater fauna and unique tropical beaches, hides a lesser-known, extremely dark past in which myths and legends about black magic, crime and punishment, and the struggle between good and evil are intertwined.
Approximately 300 years ago, the rulers of Bali, especially those from the Klunkung kingdom, would leave convicts, marital infidels, pedophiles, criminals and their political opponents on Nusa Penida. Due to its isolation, wilderness, surrounding of restless, wavy seas and limited resources, the island served as a de facto ‘natural prison’, a Balinese version of the notorious and gloomy Alcatraz. A Dutch map from 1900 called this island “The Island of Bandits and Thieves.”
But that’s not all. According to local mythology, Nusa Penida was considered the domain of Ratu Gede Mecaling, a wicked demon king often associated with misfortune, disease, and black magic. Ratu Gede Mecaling, also known as Jero Gede Mecaling, was a powerful witch doctor from the village of Batuan, exiled to Nusa Penida for practicing black magic. Sworn to take revenge on Bali, he disguised himself as the Barong, a guardian spirit, and led an army of demons to Bali during the Nyepi New Year celebration. His actions brought disease, pandemics and chaos, prompting the priests to summon the real Barong to defeat him.
Since then, Nyepi has become a day of absolute silence and darkness, when no sounds are made or lights are lit, in order to hide from evil spirits that might decide to return.
PURA DALEM PED TEMPLE
Pura Dalem Ped Temple is the spiritual center of Nusa Penida. This temple, which consists of five separate shrines, is believed to be home to the spirit of Jero Gede Mecaling. Balinese Hindus make pilgrimages here to seek protection from evil and balance between the contrasting energies of harmony and chaos.
Nusa Penida’s folklore is rich with tales of sorcerers and evil spirits. One such evil sorcerer was Jero Kadek, who is said to have been able to transform into Leak, a mythological being associated with spells and black magic.
Today, Nusa Penida beckons travelers with its natural and wild beauty, but its dark past remains etched in temples, rituals, legends, and tales of the supernatural.
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